TOOLS NEEDED:

1. Utility knife (extra razor blades)
2. Angle ruler (large and flat)
3. T-Square (flat and metal)
4. Acetone, for emergency adhesive cleanup & removal.
5. Two Phillips Head screw drivers

SUB-FLOOR PREPARATION:

1. Clean the subfloor thoroughly.
2. Remove any adhesive residue, carpet fragments, and any other debris.
3. Level the floor. Do not install over an uneven surface. If you have holes, indentations, or other noticeable abnormalities, apply floor leveling material.
4. SEAL THE FLOOR. We recommend a concrete sealer, or a mildew resistant primer. Consult with your local supply store, inform them that you will be using this in a high-heat high-humidity environment. A 10-year, waterproof, OUTDOOR rated sealer or better is optimal.
   a.   Note: At least two coats are necessary. Allow the first to dry completely    before adding the second coat.

NOTE: Follow these instructions specifically. Disregard commercial instructions found with product. DO NOT use mesh reinforcement strips under the seams, and DO NOT glue the matting to the subfloor.

INSTALLING the FLOORING:

• Make sure all rolls are the same surface temperature when installing. The warmer it becomes, the more malleable.
• Unroll your first roll from the front corner of the room and cover the floor area of studio.
• Begin on the longest, straightest wall. Avoid bending the flooring. Instead, cut it so that the side of the roll that will meet the next roll will be straight. There is a definite Top and Bottom Side to the flooring. You will be walking on the Top Side of the matting as you unroll it.
• The flooring is also DIRECTIONAL, therefore, when you start your second roll, start from the SAME SIDE that you started on with the first roll and make sure the loops are pointed in the same direction.
• Plan the entire layout on paper before you unroll and cut the flooring. The rolls have 6" or so of excess length, so cutting is necessary. However, it is not recommended to lay the entire floor out and THEN trim it. Cut a factory, straight edge at the beginning and end of each roll.
• For larger applications, it may be necessary to stagger the mats, to avoid four corners of mats meeting.

If you have any questions, please contact us at 1-800-783-2358, 314-842-1819, or info@pemsurface.com

SEAMING INSTRUCTIONS:

• Less is more. Applying too much adhesive will make the bond weaker, not stronger, and will result in an undesirable, uncomfortable hard seam. PRACTICE FIRST!!! Using your first available scrap piece, practice cutting with a utility knife and seaming it back together with the adhesive.
• Do not over-apply the accelerator. Applying more accelerator than adhesive will cause the adhesive to heat up beyond the necessary temperature, which will compromise the clarity and weaken the bond. We recommend you practice with a few scrap pieces first.
• Glue each row (roll) AS YOU LAY THE FLOORING DOWN. Do not lie out and cut the entire room and then attempt to glue it. It’s more difficult and the flooring may shift a bit as you seam it and compromise the alignment of flooring and edges.

SPECIFIC SUGGESTIONS FOR SEAMING:

• Working Conditions:
  • Adhesive works best at temperatures ABOVE 70°F, but not more than 100°F.
  • Avoid using at temperatures below 45°F.
  • Avoid using in extremely strong peak-hour sunlight and/or extremely high temperatures, or the glue may become too viscous to use effectively.
  • Avoid using in extremely high humidity, such as a rainy day. Surfaces must be clean and dry. Plan your project accordingly.
  • Optimal temperature is between 80-85°F. At this temperature the glue will work fast. If heat is not yet available in the studio, consider using some space heaters for installation.
• Do not subject flooring to rain, dust, or other contaminants that could affect the bonding ability. Adhesive requires a clean bonding surface for maximum effectiveness. It is recommended to cover the un-bonded edges with a poly tarp while keeping unused rolls indoors. Should bonding surface become dirty then use regular window cleaner and a towel to clean the surface before bonding (do not use “streak free” or “fog free” versions.)
• Safety Precautions:
  
  • Please use caution when gluing. Adhesive can bond fingers and eyelids in seconds!
  • Use (Polypropylene) gloves or coat hands with hand cream. Do NOT use rubber or latex gloves – they will bond to your project and/or yourself!
• Keep PURE ACETONE on hand, available at local supply stores. Note that Acetone can be harmful, please pay attention to the cautions on the label.
• Work in 6-12-inch increments, applying adhesive to one side and accelerator to the other side, squeezing Yoga Flooring together using 2 Phillip head screwdrivers and/or hands to provide MAXIMUM PRESSURE to bond.
  • Helpful Hint: “roll” the splice together, in a zipper-like fashion. Hold pressure for 10 seconds then continue gluing. Missed areas can be bonded again later by applying adhesive in the seam and applying pressure and shooting with accelerator.
• Do NOT allow glue to dry before bonding.
• Adhesive will also bond to most other surfaces, including flooring under Matting. To avoid this, cut a 6-inch strip of Polypropylene plastic sheet and apply beneath area to be spliced. Adhesive will not stick to Polypropylene, such as Tupperware lids, or heavy plastic bags.
• When cutting flooring, use the straightest 90° edge possible. Be certain to not cut the flooring at a mitered angle–you could be left with a “V-Shaped” groove at the seam.

Installation tips:

• Practice gluing small strips of flooring together before you do an actual seam. Less is more.
• Start with smaller sections, no longer than 6”. Apply a small amount of glue along the inside of one seam, zip the two seams together from top to bottom, aligning the tops exactly, so there is no ridge. Press the two sides together firmly and hold for 10 seconds while someone else sprays accelerant.
• Having a small fan helps accelerant dry quickly.
• A heavy, flat object will help apply adequate pressure.
• When applying the glue, try to end at a natural gap in the flooring material– it will be easier to start the next section.
• For beginnings and ends of seams, it may be easier to work in 3-4” sections.
• Have a partner to help you hold the seams together, and both of you can glue sections of up to 12 inches.
• Before the adhesive is sprayed, you can readjust the seam to get it exactly lined up.
• There may still be some curving of the roll at the edge, after you’ve cut the factory edge. You can just fold it under for half a minute or so, and/or apply a heat gun, and this should make it lie flat.
• If you notice any buckling or the flooring not lying exactly flat on the floor, apply a heat gun to the area. It’s most effective to work in circles, 1-2” away from the flooring (don't melt it). Put a heavy object on the flooring after using the heat gun.
• If you’re not happy with how a seam looks, you can always cut and re-seam.

If you have any questions, please contact us at 1-800-783-2358, 314-842-1819, or info@pemsurface.com

PEM Surface Creations, Inc., cannot control the environment our products are applied in, nor can we control the cleaning frequencies, and/or maintenance and installation procedures of the purchaser. It is the exclusive responsibility of each purchaser to determine the fit and compatibility of our products with the purchaser’s intended application and use, and to evaluate any safety, and maintenance concerns related to use of our products. PEM Surface Creations, Inc., does not cover installation, because Seller cannot control the environment of Buyer’s intended installation of the Product. Purchaser is solely responsible for selecting an adhesive and an installer for installation of the Product. Seller makes no warranty in any way related to proper installation of the Product. Buyer must look solely to the adhesive manufacturer and the installer for any warranty relating to installation, and maintenance concerns related to use of our products.